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Welcome to Dog Training - Basic 2 Lessons

About Basic 2--Basic 2 is geared to train the behaviors that are needed to obtain Canine Good Citizenship certification, although the test is not given as part of the course itself.  Basic 2 course goals are to help you continue to develop your training and handling skills, as your dog develops increased self-control and responsiveness to your cues.  In addition, we will introduce some new behaviors including beginning heeling.

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1. Full credit to the author is given on each & every copy, with the notation © Copyright 2003 – Beverly Hebert All rights reserved. Used by permission. 

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Study handouts and Lessons, including home work,  are here on the website. You can access them by clicking on their titles in the Table of Contents Lesson boxes (below). 

Basic 2 Course Overview/Table of Contents

Lesson 1

Lesson 2

Lesson 3

Lesson 4

Lesson 5

Lesson 6

ORIENTATION

PLEASE BRING YOUR DOG TO THE FIRST CLASS! 

Our overall goals for Basic 2 are:  1) To strengthen the foundation we began to build in Pup/Basic 1, by training your dog to respond more reliably to your cues/commands and to develop increased self-control. 2) To teach the behaviors needed for Canine Good Citizenship (CGC) certification.  

If you didn't take Pup/Basic 1 through Holly's Den, it would be helpful for you to review the Basic 1 section on this web site.  From time to time, we will be referring back to some of those previous study handouts.  

Probably the single most important concept for you to know and remember is that training is all about building a relationship between owner and dog and providing/controlling consequences for his/her actions for the dog--all animals repeat behaviors they find rewarding.  Behaviors that are not rewarding in any way will fade and eventually extinguish.  Dog- friendly training works by reinforcing desirable behaviors with praise, treats and play. Undesirable behavior is either not rewarded, prevented from being self-rewarding through appropriate management of the environment, or redirected into an incompatible activity that can reinforced/rewarded. Corrections, when indicated, are used to instruct rather than to punish the dog and are never physically painful or emotionally abusive.

Another important concept is to make training part of your every day life with your dog. Tip:  Post your Homework list for each week on the Fridge!  You don't need to block out big blocks of time for working your dog--you can accomplish as much by practicing in two or three short 10 minute sessions. 

Preparation for Class: Review the Class Rules & Guidelines in Basic 1.

Basic 2 Study Handout--

Most dog owners want polite pets that are easy keepers, but many of us end up with a bit of a different package, namely dogs that tend to be impulsive and reactive to various environmental triggers.  It can be a tough challenge to train large, strong, high energy dogs, or highly excitable dogs, whether large or small, to be polite companions at home and in public, especially in new situations and places. 

If you want to have a dog who always listens and immediately follows your direction at all times and under all circumstances, good luck--your dog is an animal after all and neither you nor your dog is perfect--and neither is the following poem, but it has a good message to take to heart:

When I Got My New Dog

I asked for strength that I might rear her perfectly;
I was given weakness that I might feed her more treats.

I asked for good health that I might rest easy;
I was given a "special needs" dog that I might know nurturing.

I asked for an obedient dog that I might feel proud;
I was given stubbornness that I might feel humble.

I asked for compliance that I might feel masterful;
I was given a clown that I might laugh.

I asked for a companion that I might not feel lonely;
I was given a best friend that I would feel loved.

I got nothing I asked for,
But everything that I needed-- Author Unknown 

Clarifying Goals--I hope that you are thinking in terms of wanting an obedient dog at least in part to enhance your dog's happiness and freedom to go places and do things with you and to more fully share your life.  One of our main goals in Basic 2 is to improve your dog’s attention, responsiveness and respect for you as a leader.  However, this doesn't automatically happen as a by-product of working on other obedience exercises like Sit and Come.  Rather, you will have to consciously work on attention and control as the foundation for all the other exercises that you teach your dog.  

To illustrate this distinction:  If you set out one day with all good intentions to work on “Come” and “Controlled Walking” you may unthinkingly let your dog rush out the back door, bumping you on the way.  You may allow your excited dog to jump out of the car rather than wait for your signal that it’s safe to do so.  You may let your dog drag you to the area you have selected as your training site for the session.  Meanwhile your dog is learning that when he is excited or preoccupied, it is OK to indulge in wild antics and ignore you, and this will surely carry over into his attitude about later working with you on specific obedience  exercises.  On the other hand, if you set out to work on training your dog to pay attention to you and to comply with your directives, you will start by having your dog sit politely and give you eye contact before you allow him out the door.  You will have him “Wait” for your permission to get out of the car.  If he is too excited to begin controlled walking on a loose leash, you will help him calm down before proceeding to the “training” site because you understand that in reality, everywhere and every time you and your dog are interacting, you are in a real-life training situation.

A Structured Approach Works Best

First, define your objectives.  It’s a good idea to make a list of the behaviors that you consider problems and what specific behaviors you would like to see in their place.  For example, if it bothers you that your dog greets visitors by jumping on them, would you rather that he go to a designated place (his bed or crate) when he hears the door bell ring, assume a Sit or a Down-Stay until you release him, or do whatever he pleases as long as he keeps 4 feet on the floor?  You can’t give your dog the consistent training he requires to succeed until you are clear in your own mind about exactly what behavior you want to train.

Second, form a management plan to support your objectives.  It's important to be aware that the more your dog practices an undesirable behavior, the more entrenched that behavior will become; therefore your management plan should be geared toward prevention of unwanted behaviors as you train the new ones that will replace them. That means if you don’t want your dog racing to jump on visitors, you don’t allow him to do this while you are re-training him.  If necessary, you leash or tether your dog before going to the door.  Call a family meeting to enlist everyone’s support and then post the “Rules for Rover” on the fridge.

Third, if you want your dog’s attention, pay attention to your dog!  This may seem like a no brainer, but actually, being continually aware of your dog and learning to read canine body language are both learned skills that novice owner/trainers have to consciously work to develop.  On any given day you can go to a park or to Petsmart or to a beginning dog class to see distracted owners not paying enough attention to their dogs or missing signals from their dogs!  Learning to have at least one eye on your dog at all times is a habit you need to form before you can expect your dog to repay the compliment!   

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Lesson 1

Training Calm Behavior--

10 Keys--

1. Master basic obedience training

2. Teach Your Dog to Follow the Leader

3. Set the Mood and Model Calmness

4. Teach Your Dog to Chill Out-via the Do Nothing Exercise

5. Teach Relax-Settle Exercise

6. Proactively Reinforce Calm Behavior-Click for Calm

7. Keep Your Dog Busy and Exercised

8. Develop an On-Off Switch--Switch between play and rest

9. Get Your Dog Out and About

10. Desensitize & Counter Condition

Review from Basic 1

Do Nothing Exercise--Step on the leash with both feet, giving your dog only enough slack to Sit or Down. Ignore any nudging, pawing, whining or barking from your dog.  If your dog lies down, say "Settle" and click/praise and treat.  If your dog jumps back up or resumes barking, ignore him again until he quiets-- then quietly praise and treat again.  

Relaxation handling techniques--There will many times in your dog's life when he will be distracted, excited, or agitated and will find it harder to pay attention to you.  Dog class may be one of those times. Here is what you can do to help him out: There will many times in your dog's life when he will be distracted, excited, or agitated and will find it harder to pay attention to you.  Dog class may be one of those times. Here is what you can do to help him out:

1) The more excited your dog is, the more quiet and calm you need to be.  Don’t “catch” your dog’s stressed or hyped up mood—instead help him to catch your calm one!  

2) Don't choke up on the leash-you can keep the leash short, but be sure to keep it loose enough not to put tension on the collar/tab!

3) Engage his brain--give him something to do and something to think about--have him do some doggy aerobics such as sit, down, sit, target your hand, etc.

4) Give him an outlet for his energy/stress--do some doggy aerobics (Sit, Down, etc.) or play Tug, but require him to out/give and to sit on cue, then play some more.

5) If your dog is very distracted or stressed and pays no attention when you tell him to Sit, make a noise or a movement or touch him gently in a way that will help him notice you, and keep doing it until he does (if your dog isn't aggressive, try giving repeat short gentle tugs on the collar, or little taps on his head). As soon as he glances at you, repeat Sit--if he does, praise and reward. 

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Come/Front-Sit--Stand directly in front of your sitting dog. With  your leash in one hand and a treat in the other, call your dog to Come/Front as you take one step backward. Hold the treat against the front of your body at your dog's nose level.  As your dog approaches, remind him to Sit as you allow him to eat his treat.  Goal for next week:  When your dog is readily coming in close, move the cookie up to your mouth but keep it visible to teach him to come in and focus on your face.  Gradually add more distance as you walk or run backwards and call your dog to Front.

Come/Front/Sit With Distance--If your dog now has a solid stay (he can consistently do a one minute Stay without breaking, even with some mild distractions) you may proceed to the following exercise: Tell your dog to Stay, walk to the end of the leash, call him to Come/Front; reward with the treat centered on your body.  Repeat but with treat in your mouth.  Leave your dog on leash on a stay, walk 10 feet away and with your treat centered on your body, call him to Come/Front.  Praise and give him his treat.  Repeat with treat in your mouth.

Alternate with Motivated Recalls--Show him a toy and call him to Come--as he starts toward you, turn and run and when he catches you, turn and play tug.

Training tip:  Always call your dog to come when he is most likely to want to anyway--for his supper, a game of fetch or tug, to go on a car ride, etc.  When you need to give him ear medicine or cut his nails, go get him, rather than calling him to come for anything unpleasant.  Always reward him for Coming with praise, play or a treat.

Training tip: To keep your dog coming to you in a speedy way when you call him, keep it an exciting game by mixing up your rewards--sometimes turn and let him chase and catch you, sometimes whip out a toy and play tug, etc.  Only have him Come and Sit about every third or fourth time. 

Stay With Distance--With your dog in a sit or down stay, slowly back up to the end of the leash.  Praise, return after 10 seconds and if your dog has stayed, give the treat. Release.  Repeat and have dog stay as you circle half way around him to the right and halfway around him to the left; praise, treat and release.  Circle all the way around your dog, treat and release.  With your dog on stay, drop your leash and back up 3 steps, return and treat; say Stay, back up 5 steps; return and treat; say Stay, back up 10 steps, return and treat; say Stay, back up 20 steps, return, treat.  Goal for next week: Your dog will maintain his Sit and Down Stay for 20 seconds at 20 feet.

Training tip:  Don't rush adding distance--this is the mistake that results in hard to cure stay problems.  First get a rock -solid stay up close, then add gradually add distance.

Fast Sphinx Drop From a Stand--this is foundation work for teaching the "Emergency Drop"  from a distance.-

Why--When your dog is running toward a street or another animal, stopping him with a drop signal can keep him out of trouble. *Note: If your dog  has hip or elbow dysplasia he may have trouble doing a fast drop--be patient and don't push him beyond his physical abilities.

How--With your dog in a standing position, lure him down and back into an sphinx/accordion drop by  moving the treat from his nose in toward his chest and down.  As soon as his elbows and rear end are down in the sphinx position, praise/click & treat.  After he does this successfully a couple of times,  add the verbal cue "Drop"  or "Boom."  (Use one word consistently).  Be sure to praise and release before he has time to assume a "rolled" down position.

Drop Hand Signal--When your dog will readily go down as you say "Drop." you can add a hand signal--use your right hand like a traffic cop as you say Drop.  

Stationary Tuck Sit 

Begin by teaching the stationary tuck sit.  Your dog makes a “tuck” sit as (opposed to a rock back motion) by keeping his front legs stationary as he lowers and tucks his rear end down into a sit position and bringing his rear legs up as he sits.  This helps him maintain correct close position when he comes in to sit in front and not to lag when he sits at heel (that means that he automatically comes to a sit at your side when you halt).

How--Stand or kneel facing your dog’s right side with the leash looped over your left wrist and a treat in your right hand.  Let your dog target your right hand as you lift it slightly above his head and say “Sit.”  Simultaneously, use your left hand to “tuck” your dog’s rear down.

Teaching Sit at Side—  (Tuck Sit in Motion) --How

1) Stand facing your dog’s right side with your leash looped over your left hand and a target treat in your right hand.  Take a sideways step your right; as you close with your left food and stop, say Sit as your left hand tucks the rear forward and you cup your dog's muzzle with your right hand to draw the dog’s head up.  

2) Now face forward with your dog on your sitting on your left side in the heel position. With the leash in your right hand and a food treat in your left, take one step forward, halt, and say Sit as you slightly raise your hand while your dog targets the food lure.  This should encourage your dog to lift his head, sink into a sit.  Praise and  reward. 

Training tip: Practicing next to a wall will help your dog form the muscle memory to Sit straight rather than to "butt out."

Now that you have taught your dog to Sit at your side, you can begin to teach him to Sit whenever you halt while heeling!

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Return to: Basic 2 Course Overview

Lesson 2

Food treats in Training: Review from Basic 1: 

Food Lures--When the dog is encouraged to target a treat with his nose in order to guide him into position while teaching him the body mechanics of a new exercise, the food is being used as a lure;  lures can become a crutch and should be faded out as soon as possible.  

Food rewards--When food is given to the dog AFTER he has given a correct response or performed well, that food is a reward and his paycheck for a job well done and giving it to him will reinforce his good behavior.

Food bribes--When food is dangled in front of the dog *BEFORE*  asking him to do something that 1) he already knows how to do very well, that food has become a bribe  To prevent yourself from falling into this trap, once your dog has learned how to reliably perform a behavior, keep the food out of sight until after he has given a correct response.  Always reward correct responses with praise, but only randomly reward with treats, and save your treat rewards for the best responses.

Front & Finish--The Finish is a move your dog makes that brings him from the front position to a "sit at heel" position; the usual verbal cue is "Get Close."  

Why: Teaching your dog to sit politely at your side is another important control measure.  When you are out and about, it reminds him to keep his attention on you and to look to you for cues for what he should do next.  Sometimes the best way to help your dog know what he shouldn’t do (lunge, bark, jump, etc.) is by teaching him what he should do instead—sit calmly by your side.

Stand facing your sitting dog, with the leash in your right hand and a treat in your left.  Lure your dog to follow your left hand as you step back, swinging your arm behind you in a semi-circle, and then forward again returning to your start position, with your feet together and your left hand by your left hip. If your dog doesn’t automatically sink into a sit as he follows your upraised hand, remind him by saying, “Sit.”  After he has repeated this a few times, begin to give the cue for this exercise by saying  “Get Close.”  Practice this move both on and off leash.

Training tip:  Practice next to a wall to help your dog learn the muscle memory to sit straight rather than finishing and sitting  "butt out."  

Heeling/Pace Changes--Introduce pace changes by heeling in large 20 foot circles.

As you circle to the left, your dog will have to slow down a bit.   When you are about half way around your 20 foot circle, release, feed and play. 

Now, circle to the right at a normal pace.  Your dog will have to pick up speed in order to maintain his position.  Encourage him in a happy voice and use the verbal cue “Hurry” or “Fast.” 

Hurry Up Game:  With your dog sitting or standing at your left side, alert her to a food treat in your left hand, say “Fast” as you quickly pivot in a three quarter turn to your right—when your dog’s nose is even with your hand, praise and feed. 

Note:  If you have a tiny dog, you may find it helpful to teach him to heel with the aid of a dowel rod/stick which you can purchase at any hardware store.  Teach your tiny dog to target a dowel stick and then use the stick in lieu of a food lure in your hand, by placing some peanut butter or cheese whiz on the stick end.  Hold the stick in your right hand straight across your body and let her target the end with her nose.  Later you can fade out the stick, just as others will be fading out the visible food lure in their hands.  

Heeling-Left, Right & About Turns--Circle Right--Begin with a 20 foot circle to the right and gradually make it smaller until you and your dog are making right turns.  Keep your shoulders straight and look where your are going; if you dog lags don’t jerk the leash, and don’t slow down, speed up.  Lagging dogs are usually bored dogs that are not having fun. You can keep heeling fun and interesting by stopping often to play and by doing unexpected things while heeling such as spitting a cookie or whipping out a toy.

Circle left--Make a circle to the left and make it smaller until you are making left turns.  If your dog forges, don’t jerk the leash—stay calm, tell him “easy, slow” or change direction and do an about turn.

About turn in place—With your dog sitting or standing in heel position, the leash in your right hand and a treat in your left, make a 180 degree turn in place by moving your left foot at an angle in front of your right, then moving your right foot

Combine Heeling and Sit at Heel.

Begin heeling in a straight forward path.  When the instructor says Halt, slow down slightly, raise your left hand with the treat visible, halt and tell your dog to “Sit.”

If you dog Sits as you stop, say “YES” and give his treat. 

This time the treat is not a release, so If he starts to get up before you begin to move forward again, say “Uh-uh” or “No” and remind him to Sit!   Your dog must Sit until you tell him to Heel again or say your release word to indicate the exercise is over.

Homework-Week 2

Return to: Basic 2 Course Overview

Lesson 3

Greeting Exercise--Without Touching--as I walk around and greet the dogs, remind your dog to sit as I approach.  If she doesn't break her sit, quietly praise your dog and I will also give her a treat.  If your dog jumps, I will turn my back and walk away, then come back and give her another chance.  The dog should learn that jumping is the behavior that makes me go away, sitting is the behavior that brings me closer and results in a treat.  

Greeting With Petting--Today we're going to raise the bar on our greeting exercise.  When I come around to greet each of you, I will ask if it's OK to pet your dog.  As I bend down to pet your dog, remind her to Sit.  If she does, quietly praise her. and give her a Jack pot. 

Stay with 3 D's Practice--Practice Stay, alternating increasing Duration, Distance and adding Distractions.

1. Tell your dog to Stay for 10 seconds remaining next to him--praise, return, and release.

2. Tell your dog to Stay for 7 seconds; take 6 steps away and return.

3. Tell your dog to Stay for 10 seconds, take 6 steps away and return. 

4. Tell your dog to Stay remaining next to him while I walk by and distract him.

5. Tell your dog to Stay, walk to the end of the leash as I walk by and distract him.

Hold a treat visible and say "Stay"  as you stand in front of your dog.  If your dog stays, give her permission to take the treat by saying, "OK, Get It."  If she moves, whisk the treat out of sight as you remind her to stay. Variation: The treat-airplane game.

Come With Distractions--Give your dog permission to play with me by saying "Go say hello" or "go play" but stay right behind her.  When she is showing interest in me and my food, call her to Come.  If she does, run backwards as you warmly praise her and when she gets to you give her a Jack Pot (feed her several treats one at a time). If, on the other hand, she ignores you, tell her to "Leave It--Come" in a firm tone.  If she comes, praise and treat.  But if she still doesn't come I will restrain her by holding her leash and I will ignore her as you go around  the room make a big production of treating and playing with all the other dogs. Then when she wants to get back to you, we will give her another chance. 

Training tip: When your dog does come to you (outside of class), don't allow her to immediately run off again.  Tell her to Sit or engage her in a game of tug, then tell her to Sit. 

Heeling With Distractions-- We are going to warm up with a little heeling in large circles but on the second go around I am going to provide some very mild distractions with food and toys.  As you pass me, if your dog loses attention and looks toward me, tell her to Leave it and when she looks back at you, praise (YES) and reward her.  If you can anticipate that she is about to lose attention and focus on me, you can 1) do a quick about turn, 2)release and play, or 3)  Spit or drop a cookie right before he starts to look at me--is he misses the cookie because he wasn't paying attention to you, beat him to it and make a big (pretend) show of eating it.  The point is, be unpredictable!

Reaction to Distractions--(Umbrellas, carts, pots, odd actions, etc.) Remain next to your dog with a relaxed and cheerful attitude while I make some distracting noises and movements.  The goal here is to build the dog's confidence in the face of noisy distractions. Keep in mind that the more you can get your dog out and about in the world, while giving him controlled positive exposure to new sights, sounds, and experiences, the more confident he will be.

Stand For Approach/Touching--

For Approach--Place your dog in a Stand-Stay.  Remain by his side and remind him to Stay as I approach.  If he remains still, praise and treat.

For Touching--Again, tell your dog to Stand-Stay and remain by his side as I approach.  Remind him to Stay as I lightly touch him.  If he remains still, praise and treat.

Homework-Week 3-Do three sessions of Sit-Stay practice daily with 5 repetitions each time. One session should be to work on increasing time duration;  one session to work on increasing distance; one session to work on increasing distractions.  During these three sessions, return to your dog rather than calling your dog to Come.  An eventual goal is to be able to walk away 20 feet, leave your dog on a solid stay for 20 seconds, and return.

Return to: Basic 2 Course Overview

Lesson 4  

*Although you are no longer keeping the food visible, it is important to continue praising your dog and giving him frequent rewards for getting it right.

Come On Long Line With Distractions--With a long line on your dog for extra safety, allow him to be distracted by me, then call him to Come.  If he does, click and treat.  If he doesn't, run up to him and tell him again to Come in a firm tone.

Stay & Come With Distance

1) As we stand in circle formation,  ask your dog to Sit/stay.  Walk to the end of the leash facing your dog.  When I cue you, call your dog by saying "Fido Come" as you run backwards a few steps.  Praise him as soon as he starts to comply and when he reaches you, reward him with play or a cookie.

2) Place your dog on a Sit-Stay.  Walk 10 feet away, then call your dog to Come.  When he gets close, remind him to Sit and feed him a treat held against your body.

Stand With Distance--Place your dog on a Stand-Stay, take 3 steps back, return and treat; remind him to Stay, take 6 steps back, return, treat, and release.

Place your dog on a Stand and remain next to him while I approach and touch him--praise, treat and release.

Place  your dog on a Stand and take 3 steps back while I approach and touch him.  Return, praise, treat, and release.  

Place your dog on a Stand and take 6 steps back while I approach and touch him.  Return, praise, treat and release.  

Physical Examination--Your dog will allow me to softly brush her, look at her ears, and gently pick up each foot.  

Supervised Separation--Hand your leash to me and walk out of the room for 30 seconds, return, praise and treat.  Practice this at home until your dog your dog can remain relaxed with you out of view for at least 3 minutes.

Relaxing Tricks-Roll Over, Bang/Play Possum & Take a Bow--If you get your dog to physically relax, the emotional state will tend to follow.

Roll Over—train this on a carpet or other soft surface.

1. Lure or cue your dog to do a Down (rolled on one hip).
2. Slowly move the lure from the front of your dog’s nose in toward his chest, then up over his shoulders and then behind his head.
3. Click & treat as your dog stretches to follow the treat.
4. Move the lure further past his shoulder so that he begins to turn over on his back.  Keep moving the lure to guide him to keep turning until he is on his other side—click & treat.
5. Name the behavior—when your dog is rolling over to follow the lure, begin to give the verbal cue “Roll over” as he turns.

Bang-Play Dead/Play Possum

1. Encourage your dog to follow the food lure into a down position, rolled on one hip.  His head should now be facing toward the same side as his legs. Feed the treat.
2. Use the lure to have him turn his head, as if to look over his shoulder, in the opposite direction from his legs.  As he raises his head this will cause him to roll back on his shoulder. 
3. With your dog now on his side, move the lure to turn his nose back to the front and down.  As his head touches the floor say, “Play Possum.” Praise and treat.

Training tip—If you dog goes down into a square sphinx position, to get him into a rolled down, lure him into position by moving a treat from his nose in a small semi circle toward his upper back—as he follows the lure he will roll a bit on his side—click & treat.

 Bow—this is a great back-stretching exercise!

1. Cue words are “Bow”  “Take a Bow” or “Curtsy.”
2. Kneel beside your dog while he Stands.
3. Position your left hand (with your clicker) under his abdomen to prevent him from sitting.
4. Use a lure in your right hand to lure him into lowering and folding his front end back into a Down by moving your hand down and in toward his chest—Click & treat.  Repeat this several times
5. Name the behavior—as your dog lowers his front end, say “Bow.”
6. Fade out using your left hand to keep his belly up—repeat using less pressure with your hand, until you stop making direct contact with your hand at all.
7. Fade the lure 

Training tips—

If he starts to lower his rear end when you remove your left hand, just remind him by saying Oops or Wrong as you re-position your hand to prevent him from folding—then remove your hand again and click & treat if he holds his position. 

Help your dog catch on to the body mechanics of the bow by luring with your right hand slightly under a low piece of furniture, such as a coffee table or bed.  As your dog follows the treat with his nose down and forward, support his "belly up" position with your left hand--click and treat several times as he maintains the bow position.

Homework-Week 4 --Practice two Stay sessions a day with 5 repetitions each session, telling your dog to Stay, then returning and releasing him.  Alternate increasing time and distance in each session.  If you can walk away 20 feet, and leave your dog for 20 seconds before you return to release him. proceed to the next exercise.

Tell your dog to Stay, walk away 6 ft and tell him to Come/Sit.  If he does this successfully, praise and treat, then repeat sequence, but walk away 10 feet.  If he does this OK, repeat and walk away 15 feet.  If he does this OK repeat and walk away 20 feet. 

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Return to: Basic 2 Course Overview

Lesson 5

Greeting Exercise With Dogs--Your and your dog will walk up and approach another owner and dog.  When you are face to face remind your dog to sit as you and the other owner say hello, how are you,  good-bye and tell your dog "Let's go as you return to where you started from.  If either dog starts to pull toward the other, and both owners should stop or back up.  If your dog is the puller, say uh-uh and back up. Tell your dog to sit and praise if he complies. Move forward toward the other dog only as long as your own dog is under control. 

Come/Distractions Behind Owner--What we want to do now is train your dog to come and maintain his focus on you even if something interesting is going on behind you.  You don't want to call your dog only to have him come toward you and then go flying by.

How--Place your dog on a Stay, walk about 20 feet away and turn and turn and call your dog to Come.   I will offer some food and toy distractions behind you. As your dog is running in to you, as he draws near you remind him to Sit.  If your dog starts toward me, tell him to Leave It and call him again.  If he comes to you, give him a Jack pot.   I will then come to you and you may reward him with my goodies.  

Go to Bed/Crate/Place-Park It--Demo--

(Optional) Add Go to Place Command/Park It--As Automatic Response To Door Bell Rings & Knocks-method source: trainer Val Pollard. 

1. Choose a “place” preferably within view of the door to keep the dog’s basket or mat.  It should be close enough so the dog can see the people coming in, but far enough away so that she can control herself.  

2. Repeat sequence as described above, adding noises by the door.  If you have a helper, you should remain by your dog while your helper goes to the door and knocks softly.  Your dog will probably alert and try to leap off the rug or bark.  Remind him to remain on his rug by repeating your “Place/Park it” verbal cue and if necessary use the leash to keep her on the mat.  You may allow your dog to bark an alarm.  However, if you consider alarm barking a problem, you can interrupt the barking by pulling up and forward on the head halter—as your dog stops barking, say “Quiet,” praise and feed a treat.  Repeat sequence with soft knock until your dog can control himself and successfully stay on Place/mat without being restrained by the leash, until you release him with OK. 

3. Repeat above but with a harder knock and more commotion by the door. 

4. Repeat sequence but instead of knocking, ring the doorbell.  If  your dog regresses, resume holding the leash and feeding treats.  Be patient and persistent until he is again successful.

5. Your helper should pretend to leave now while you walk your dog around the house on leash.  Outside, your helper should ring the doorbell.  Tell your dog to Go to her Place/Park It, and if he goes, click and treat or say YES and treat. Release by saying OK.

6. Continue to practice 1) ringing bell 2) telling dog to Go To Place  and 3) rewarding dog, until dog learns the association between the bell ringing and going to place.

7. Practice this every time anyone comes to your door,  until dog can maintain behavior with visitors.

8. Your eventual goal is to make Going to Place such a strong habit that your dog will begin to automatically Go to Place when she/he hears the bell ring.

Heel Through Crowd--

We will form a circle and take turns walking the dogs around the circle and  weaving in and out. (The size of the circle will depend on how friendly and relaxed the dogs are with one another).  

Stay/Distractions, Distance, Duration--These are the "3 D's" that we work on to teach our dogs a reliable Stay.  So far we have worked on them one and then two at a time and today we will combine all three.  We will ask the dogs to do a 2 minute stay while we stand six feet away, walk around them, clap and bounce a ball.  

College Level--Out of Sight Stays--If you wish to teach your dog to Stay even when you walk away out of his sight, begin by training this in a safe confined location and in a place where even if he can’t see you, you can still see him or watch him from behind his back (some possibilities include see-through fireplaces, mirrors, cracks in a door, from behind trees or bushes, from the space under the bed).  Calm your dog’s anxiety by only leaving for a few seconds before returning—and gradually build up his confidence that he can count on you to always return in a reasonable time.  Even in the Obedience ring, dogs only do 3 to 5 min. out of sight stays.  When you return, praise quietly but keep your return greeting low